BEST OF FITZ 2017
Buy Better Jeans With The 6 Cs Of Denim
4. Colour (AKA Don’t Taste The Rainbow)
The coruscating shades of modern denim would make Levi Strauss weep. But then, so would seeing men pay four figures for an item he designed to go down mines. Dry his eyes and stick to denim’s core four washes: black, indigo, faded and, in the summer, white. Leave coruscating colours to the boybands.
Within that quartet, the darker your jeans, the smarter they are. And the easier they are to wear. Black goes with anything from a button-down to a crew neck. White treads a fine line between Pitti Peacock and the forgotten half of Wham!.
5. Complexion (AKA Look Closely At The Details)
Denim’s devil is in the details. Your dry selvedge can look fine from afar, until people notice your chafe-induced John Wayne waddle. Denim below 14oz will avoid that. Keep an eye out for contrast stitching and embellishments on the back pocket – fine out of the office, less so with a blazer and tie.
Distressing, especially, needs attention. The aim is to skip the two years transitioning from raw denim to personalised wear. Not look like you recreatedFargo’s woodchipper scene.
Keep nicks to a six-inch window above your knee, to avoid accidentally emulating Rick Owens’ manhood-flashing AW15 show. If in doubt, buy an unsullied pair and slice your own with a razor. Carefully.
6. Cleaning (AKA Yes, You Will Have To Wash Them Eventually)
Most of the myths around cleaning denim are precisely that. But it’s true that the longer they avoid the machine, the better.
Raw denim – dark indigo jeans that haven’t been washed – lose dye where they crease. These ‘fades’ are the denimhead’s Holy Grail, personalised wear marks that give a history of how you’ve worn them. The spin cycle extracts this dye all-over, so your jeans fade everywhere at once.
Nudie Jeans New to Worn Raw Denim Jeans
Six months is the minimum you want to keep raw jeans out of the laundry basket (if they’re black or came pre-distressed, that’s less important). But because biology has no time for fashion, scents can tempt an early wash. Resist.
However, don’t believe the anonymous denim aficionado who keeps his in the freezer; sponge yours, or deploy Mr Black’s Denim Refresh for spot cleaning that kills odours, not your fades.
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